The Great Cotehardie Project (holy applique, Batman!)

So I've been Playing in the SCA for about.. 6+ years now. I've had time to build a fairly respectable wardrobe in those years. However, since my Lord, Dante (he JUST got his AoA this past weekend, SO proud!) has not been in as long, there was some garb envy going on.. hehe.. So we had to fix that. He's got a few nice things, but he wants to focus on 15th-16th ce. Italian, and thats just too fussy for me, thanks. So i offered to make him a men's Cotehardie.
i originally sketched out long sleaves. then there was the discussion of NO sleeves, so we compromised on short, lol. (we're good at that, i have hope for us!)

Having recently lead a class on Heraldic Clothing at the Middle Kingdom Heraldic and Scribal Symposium, it only made sense to make this a heraldic cote for him, with a charge on either parti-colored side. We chose to split his arms into the Vert (green) on his left, the argent (white : ) on his right, so this lead the charges placement as well.
Also at MKHSS, my apprentice brother Godfrey taught an applique class. This was something i understood in theory, but had yet to experiment with much, so why not now?

I took measurements and drafted the pattern, fitting both sides in one color (since both sides would be similar, this not being a FITTED garment as much as my own cotes, and since the opposite side could be used as the lining anywho : ) (sorry, i did not photo-document this process, i will next time!)

***DISCLAIMER*** I'm an apprentice but My art is ENAMELING (disregard the fact that my laurel is a cook and potter..) most of this whole process is period-esque. you want accuracy? go contact my friend Cerridwyn. I did look at period illuminations and even tryied to hunt down some existant pieces, but when it comes down to it? i Care, just not THAT much : )
*end disclaimer*

I then drew his charges onto cardstock to then be traced onto the fabric!
Charges were then cutout with about 1/4" spare around the outside edges.

As i stiched around with a matching thread, i turned under this 'seam allowance', creating a clean edge : )

All tacked down!
At this point, i began to do the detail stitching that make it look more like a fox, and less like a fox shaped blob : P

Instead of making his paws and the end of his tail a solid white, i outlined those areas in a white floss. i THINK this is me just being lazy, or simplifying things.. im undecided on that. but it looks awesome, so whatevs.

The completed Foxy fox : D

So somehow i was magically NOT tired of Applique yet, so i began the next charge, the Harp. Same process for this guy as well.

This one started with me trying to prove to the fox that i had his charge facing the right direction...

Same process of Pinning the piece and stitching with matching thread, in this case a 100% Bamboo i got from a Crown Tourney/A&S back a few years ago.. i LOVE this color..

Gold contrast edging on the harb, this one didn't have defining stitching like the fox, but it Does have embroidered strings, which given enough hard cider, someone likes to pretend to play ^_^

The completed Harp!!

All the applique was done before construction, this keeps all the threads incased between the outside and the lining material.

Construction Starts:

Pre-Sleeves, but outside and lining are all pieced together. i then stitch the lined sleaves to the outside, turn over the sleeve lining, stitch it just to the inside of the seam, and everything is closed up : D

I even Hand bound all the button holes, eesh, you'd think i like'd him or something.. clockwise from top: completed, whipstitched, and only marked, Combo-shot!!

At this point the only compleyed shot i have of the Cote is this picture of him getting his AoA /facepalm

i'll fix that later, i promise.. BUT He did get many compliments, including from His Highness, so i call this a win : D